Annapurna Sanctuary Trek in Nepal

On the morning of Sep 23rd I flew from Kathmandu to Pokhara, where I checked into the Chhetri Sisters Guesthouse. I received a very warm and relaxed welcome there. This is the guesthouse of the same company I had booked my Annapurna Sanctuary Tea-House Trek with. I went for a walk in Pokhara, changed some money and enjoyed views of Phewa Lake, all much more relaxed than Kathmandu.
That evening I met Francis, my trekking partner; our guide, Nirma; and our 2 porters, Bima and Dhana.

The next morning we embarked on our trekking adventure. Where the weather had been very nice up till that moment it started drizzling the moment we stepped out of the van and onto the trail. And it basically rained for the first 6 days of the trek. The first few days we had some dry spells; the last 2 days it simply poured down the whole time.
And then, on day 7, the weather cleared: blue skies and sun for the second half of the trek, which meant we actually had views! This was the day that we hiked upto and into ABC (Annapurna Basecamp South) and it was breathtakingly stunning. Like walking into a huge cauldron rimmed with high peaks.

I could go into a day-to-day account of the trek, but I won't bore you with that here. Suffice it to say that it was probably the hardest thing I have ever done (specially mentally) and in the end it was very rewarding. I came away from that adventure with a very good feeling and a huge sense of achievement.
I would also like to mention that Francis and I got on very well, we were very well-suited trekking partners.
Our porters, Bima and Dhana, did a great job, I have no doubt that in a few years they will be excellent guides.
And last but not least: Nirma (our guide): she was simply the best. I could not have done it without her. It was her strength and professionalism that got me through day 6 (for me the most difficult day for various reasons).

The trek in pictures.


Bonus album: Mountains from above.


Chhetri Sisters or 3 Sisters Adventure Trekking.

Chhetri Sisters' amazing project: Empowering the Women of Nepal. I was lucky to be able to meet all 3 sisters.

Tibet/China: The Albums

Peking/Beijing Revisited Photos
Since I had been in Beijing in 2005 and at that time also visited the Great Wall and the Forbidden City, I did not take many photos this time. For more see the album of 2005.

Train Journey Beijing - Lhasa Photos
We embarked on the almost 48 hour train journey in Beijing on Sep 11 at 9pm to arrive in Lhasa on Sep 13 around 8pm, and although the trip was fine and exciting in its own way, it was no Orient Express (not that I've ever been on that one!).
The facilities on the train get a tad 'overused' to say the least and clean-up is not always done promptly. The staff are constantly smoking under the 'no-smoking' signs so of course many of the locals (read 'Chinese') follow their example.
Our group had bunks in the 'hard-sleeper' section; we all kinda hoped for the soft-sleepers but somehow our travel company (or guide) did not manage to secure these. In the end the hard-sleepers worked out fine.
From the 2nd night onwards oxygen was pumped through the train, so most of us did not feel the altitude during the trip (the train does go the 5000m), except for some light-headedness and some headaches here and there.
The views, specially on day 2, are what really makes this trip worthwhile!



Lhasa Photos
We spent 3days/4nights in Lhasa, which made it a non-rushed visit and helped with acclimatization since Lhasa is at 3700m. We had time to explore the city and make a side trip.
We visited the Jokhang, Tibet's most sacred religious place, and the adjoining Barkhor Square and Circuit.
It was fascinating to watch the debating monks at the Sera Monastery; at times I didn't know whether to feel happy to witness this or to feel intrusive...
Our managed to get a sidetrip organized to the Ganden Monastery (about 40km northeast of Lhasa.) The views from the Kora (walk around the Monastery) were simply stunning.
And then there was the Potala Palace. We almost didn't make it... our guide kept telling us that there was a very real possibility that we wouldn't get tickets... and almost seemed happy to leave it at that... he also dismissed the Palace as 'a big building with lots of empty rooms'... Four members of our group then took it upon themselves to go and line up early in the morning to secure tickets for the group (and thank you to them for that). For most of us this was one of the highlights of the trip (I mean... being in Lhasa and not visiting the Potala?!).
There also was time to explore on our own and we had some nice dinners and lunches (thanks to good restaurant choices of our guide).

Gyantse Photos
On the morning of Sep 17th we left Lhasa in 4 Toyota Landrovers and started the long day's drive towards Gyantse. We made 2 detours.
The first one was about 1.5 hours out of Lhasa when we drove up and up to gaze down at beautiful Lake Yamdrok-Tso, one of Tibet's 4 holy lakes.
The second took us on dirt roads to some impressive sanddunes.
In Gyantse we visited the Pelkor Chode Monastery and with the Gyantse Kumbum (a round structure of 35m high).


Shigatse Photos
On Sep 18th around noon we did the short, 2 hour drive from Gyantse to Shigatse and there we had the afternoon free. The next day we visited the Tashilhunpo Monastery (the seat of the Panchen Lama). After a late lunch we did the 3 hour drive to Sakya, which took us through a high pass and beautiful scenery. Visited the Sakya Monastery upon arrival, the last of the monasteries on the itinerary. I enjoyed all of them.

Everest Photos
Early in the morning of Sep 20th we started our journey towards Rombuk and Everest Basecamp (EBC). We entered the Qomolangma (Tibetan name for Everest) National Park and although it still took a while before we saw The Big One, the scenery was spectacular! When we got our first views of Everest and got out of the cars to gaze, gawk, stand in awe,... and take pictures, we were almost immediately ushered back in the cars by our guide (saying that we'd have more opportunities later). The group kind of ignored that for at least 10 more mins... he might have seen this 4 times already, for us it was the first time! It was Everest!!
We arrived at the Rombuk guesthouse around 2pm, had lunch and set off towards EBC (some of us on foot, like me, others in donkey carts). So I made it to EBC at 5200m!!! And beat Stephen to it!!!! For the rest of the day we huddled together in the cozy common room of the guesthouse.
That night it snowed so the landscape we drove through the next morning was eerily transformed.
That day we drove via Nyalam (where we had to wait for the road to open in our direction - there are roadworks going on and the road does not exactly lean itself to 2-way traffic) to the bordertown of Zhang-Mu, to cross into Nepal the day after.

People of Tibet Bonus Album

Enjoy this selection of photos of my Tibetan Adventure. I enjoyed it immensely!

Caroline.

Both back home!

Stephen arrived back home yesterday; I'm home since this morning.

I was in the middle of putting an update here a few days ago, when the power went. Haven't had access to email since, until getting back home. Will update very soon!!!!

Back from my 12 day trek!

Just a quick one to let you all know that I am back from my trek!! It was probably the hardest thing I have ever done. But now I am starving and will go and have lunch with my trekking partner, Francis. May post more later today, but also have some issues with flights to sort out.

Toedeloe from Pokhara!

Back in Lhasa

Arrived late last night back in Lhasa, one day ahead of schedule. We gave the bus driver a little extra money and he was willing to do some long driving days.

So today, spending a bit of time of the Internet just catching up.

Today is also the day Caroline will be ending her trek in Nepal. And tomorrow I fly back to Beijing and overnight before heading onwards to San Francisco. So, the trips are really coming to an end now!

Back to work on Monday it seems.

Last Day at ABC

This is the final post from Advanced Base Camp. We are breaking down ABC and preparing to leave tomorrow. We are all very excited about finally heading down. The Yaks just arrived and will be loaded up in the morning. Next post will be on the road back to Lhasa. As we have left ABC, the alpine ascents email address will no longer work. Please send emails to stephenonchooyu@yahoo.com instead. I should be able to reply on Thursday.

Heading Home

We are starting to break down ABC and preparing to head home. Tomorrow night (Tuesday 10/2) the Yaks arrive. We will load them up on Wednesday (10/3) morning and hike down via Chinese Base Camp to the awaiting jeeps which will whisk us to Tingri for the night. After Tingri we overland in the jeeps back to Shigatse for a night (10/4) and then onto Lhasa for our final night in Tibet (10/5). So, all going well I will be back in San Francisco on 10/7.

Signing off from a mild and sunny ABC. Next post will likely be from Shigatse.

We are done on Cho Oyu

Well we finally made our move up the mountain as part of the summit push. On Thursday (9/27) we headed up to Camp 1 in good weather. We were all very pleased to be heading up and on our summit push. Unfortunately the weather overnight and Camp 1 was not brilliant. But on Friday (9/28) we moved up to Camp 2 in some very bad weather. The wind was nailing us on the fixed lines. Overall we made good time up to Camp 2. Once at Camp 2, the weather just got worse and worse. I am amazed that the tents survived the night. The wind howled from about 4:00pm right through the night and into Saturday. So the guides decided to cancel the summit push. So today has been a very long day. We down climbed from Camp 2 back to ABC. We are now all back at ABC having a late dinner and shortly to have some beers. No summit this year for us. We are all strong and safe. We are at ABC for another few days as we pack up. So I will send for information shortly.

Weather Weather Weather

Looks like another day at ABC. Although there are some signs that the weather might actually be clearing. This is day 7 that we have had to hunker down at ABC. And it is becoming a bit of a drag. The snowing of the last few days continues this morning, so I am sure they will ask us to dig out our tents this afternoon - grrrrrr.

We only have a few days more weather days left in the schedule before we will have to abort this season's attempt. So please, keep your fingers crossed that this miserable weather passes over us and the good weather returns.

Yet Another Forced Weather Day

That's right - yet another day at ABC.

The tropical depression is starting to dissipate, but we still have high winds and blowing snowing. So we are hunkered down at ABC. Many of the other teams are retreating from higher up on the mountain and there are even reports that tents have been blown out. Looks like it could be a late season this year.

So please, continue to keep your fingers crossed. Signing out from a cold and miserable ABC.

Another Forced Weather Day at ABC

We woke up to snowing conditions. While the snowing conditions would not stop us moving up to Camp 1, the forecast for tomorrow is for much more snow. So we decided that we did not want to spend the day trapped at Camp 1. The decision was to take our third weather day here in the relative luxury of ABC.

The forecast is still for better weather on 9/26 through 9/28. So please keep your fingers crossed that we will be able to head up soon.

Arrived in Pokhara.

We enjoyed our last group dinner last night in Kathmandu and most of us were sad that the adventure was over. I was sad on the one hand that the first part of my trip was over (and a good first part it was) and excited on the other hand about the second part of my trip. This morning's flight from Kathmandu to Pokhara is without a doubt the shortest and most spectacular I have ever done: I scored a seat on the right side of the plane and got a-ma-zing views of the Himalayas, in particular the Annapurna's (in the midst of which I will be hiking from tomorrow). The mountains were higher than our flight path. I received a warm welcome at the Chhetri Sister's guesthouse. Went out to change some money and upon my return was told that Stephen called!!!! He will call again at 5pm today, so I will be sitting next to that phone from 4.30pm!!!!!! So tomorrow my trekking adventure starts; I am very excited about it. I'm hoping it will be a positive and challenging experience. This will be my last post till Oct 5 or 6, when I get back from my trek.

Still at ABC

The weather is not cooperating with us as much as we would like. A tropical depression in the Bay of Bengal is having the effect of forecasted high winds in our region on the 25th and 26th. So we have delayed the start of our Summit Push, with the hope of catching better weather once this system blows through. The jet-stream still remains to the North, so we have time before that hits. Other than the weather we are all ready to head high. The most likely schedule is now

- Monday (9/24) - Move to Camp 1
- Tuesday (9/25) - Move to Camp 2 (this is a long day)
- Wednesday (9/26) - Move to Camp 3 (have not done this yet!)
- Thursday (9/27) - Summit!!!! (return to Camp 2)
- Friday (9/28) - Return to ABC.

Or maybe a day behind the above schedule. It is hard to tell with this weather stuff.

So another beautiful day here at ABC. The sun is shinning, the wind is low, the temperatures is around the mid-teens (Celsius) and we have a wonderful view of Mt Cho Oyu.

Made it to Kathmandu!

We arrived here a few hours ago and after doing some much needed hand-washing I went looking for an internet place straight away!

The trip since Shigatse:

So, after a morning visit to the Tashilhunpo Monastery in Shigatse (home of the Panchen Lama or 2nd Lama) we did the 3 hour drive to Sakya where, upon arrival, we visited our last monastery of the trip. I decided to relax for the rest of the afternoon, to get a bit better acclimatized, and enjoyed a nice bath.

On Thu Sep 20 we had an early start: 6am breakfast to get away at 7am for the drive to Rombuk. Went over some spectacular passes and got our first look at Qomolangma (the Tibetan name for Everest) around 10am - we were all in awe!!!! What an amazing sight to actually see Everest with my own eyes!!!!!

And yes, we also got good views of Cho Oyu, Stephen's mountain. Some of us waved!!

We arrived at Rombuk guesthouse (very basic but good fun) at 5050m - quite a bit higher than that morning - around 2pm. Had lunch and set off for a 5km walk to Everest Base Camp at 5200m. I am proud to say that I walked there (but took a donkey cart back, to try and beat some nasty weather back to the guesthouse).

I actually took the altitude quite well: was a bit short of breath but slept well.

The next morning we woke up to see that it had snowed overnight.

Yesterday we drove from Rombuk to Zhang Mu, on the Chinese side of the border with Nepal. The scenery was spectacular but the drive at some times hair-curling! But all went well and we arrived around 8.30pm.

And then this morning (Sat Sep 22), we crossed the border into Nepal and drove to Kathmandu.

Do I need to say it: again spectacular scenery and beautiful weather. And a less hair-curling drive!

Tonight we have our last group dinner...

... and then tomorrow the second part of my trip starts.

Tomorrow morning I fly from Kathmandu to Pokhara to start my trek on the 24th.

I expect to have email tomorrow in the guesthouse where I'm staying.

Naturally I will not have email access during the trek - I get back to the guesthouse on Oct 5; I will email again that day or on the 6th!

I am looking forward to my trek and if the weather will be anything like it has been on this first part... well let's say that things just can't go wrong then!!!!!

Signing off from Kathmandu,

Getting Ready for the Summit Push

Well, the weather up high is looking good. The detailed weather forecasts are now starting to trickle in. Also today, a Sherpa team went above Camp 3 to fix the last of the fixed lines. So everything is looking good to commence the Summit push tomorrow.

Later today we are having Oxygen school. This is where we learn how to use our Oxygen system. We will be sleeping on about 1/2 litre of Oxygen at Camp 3 and will be making our Summit attempt on the same amount of Oxygen. The Sherpas have been busy making sure we have enough Oxygen at Camp 3.

So, just in case I do not get another chance at this Internet terminal, here is the plan for the next 5 Days.

- Saturday (9/22) - Move to Camp 1
- Sunday (9/23) - Move to Camp 2 (this is a long day)
- Monday (9/24) - Move to Camp 3 (have not done this yet!)
- Tuesday (9/25) - Summit!!!! (return to Camp 2)
- Wednesday (9/26) - Return to ABC.

There is not much wriggle-room in the schedule, as there is no extra food or Oxygen for extended time up high. As I can not get to the Internet during this period, please follow along on the Alpine Ascents Cybercast.

We are all getting pretty excited now. So keep your fingers crossed for good weather.

Camp 2

Just returned from our acclimatization climb to Camp 2. We hiked to Camp 1 on Monday and spent both Monday and Tuesday night at Camp 1. Then we hiked from Camp 1 to Camp 2 which is a considerably more difficult climb. It is a little more technical with sections of ice climbs and about 40% of the route has fixed lines. It was a tough climb and the air was very thin. So today (Thursday) and tomorrow (Friday) we rest. We will start getting detailed weather reports, but it looks like we will start our summit attempt on Saturday. The team is feeling very positive.

It is currently beautiful sunny weather here at Advanced Base Camp. I think I might wash my hair this afternoon.

Hello from Shigatse!

The Potala Palace - what can I say! So far that was the emotional highlight for me: standing outside the little room where the 14th (current) Dalai Lama studied as a boy, brought a tear to my eye.

On Mon Sep 17 we left Lhasa at 9am for a long but rewarding drive to Gyantse.

Our transport consists of 4 Toyota Landcruisers, so rather comfortable with 5 to a car: driver and 4 passengers (14 in our group, our guide Tristan and our local Tibetan guide). We made 2 detours: the first to 4800m to gawk at one of 4 'holy lakes' - amazing blue color; the second was off-road to look at and play on some sanddunes - good fun and good to be out of the cars for 30-40mins.

We arrived in Gyantse (4000m) around 6pm - just in time for dinner.

This morning (Tue Sep 18) we visited the Monastery in Gyantse: we had 2 hours to explore the place at our own pace, so some of us climbed the immense Stupa and relaxed on top of it for a while.

Around noon we set off for a 2 hour drive to Shigatse, where I am now. We had a late lunch here and are now free to explore the 2nd biggest city of Tibet.

This will also be the last time I have access to internet until either Kathmandu (depending on how early/late we arrive there) on Sat Sep 22, or Pokhara on Sun Sep 23rd.

After this I'm off to the local markets.

Schedule for the next few days:

Tomorrow Wed Sep 19 we drive to Sakya (4300m)

On Thu Sep 20 we drive to Rombuk (5000m) and we have a chance to walk to Everest Base Camp at 5200m - but that will depend on how the height agrees with me or vice versa!

Fri Sep 21: to Zhang Mu (2300m) - border town.

Sat Sep 22: cross the border into Nepal and onto Kathmandu.

On Sun Sep 23 I have a very early flight from Kathmandu to Pokhara. I hope to post again from my guesthouse there before I start my hike!

Yes, I'm having a great time!!!!

Signing of from sunny Shigatse!

Day 3 in Lhasa.

I'm enjoying every moment of my time in Lhasa!

Yesterday we had a free day and 11 of us chartered a minivan to go and visit the Ganden Monastery 1.5 to 2 hours outside of Lhasa (depends on whether one's van has a flat tire or not).

The Monastery is at 4.300m, so about 500m higher than Lhasa. We did a 1 hour walk around the mountain at the back of the Monastery and the views were just spectacular. We then had an hour left to explore the Monastery.

Last night we had a group dinner: buffet style food - very nice - and some entertainment put on by the ever-smiling staff afterwards.

Another brilliant day. We are also having great weather: yesterday was very warm again; last night it rained and we heard some serious thunder; today looks like it will be fine again.

This afternoon we are visiting the Potala Palace... can't wait!

Tomorrow we leave at 9am to drive to Gyantse.

Tashi delek from Lhasa!

To Camp 2

Another perfect weather day here at ABC. Most likely we will move up to Camp 1 today and spend Monday getting ready for the move to Camp 2 and resting a little. Will we take all our mountaineering hardware and snow travel clothing up to Camp 1 today. Then on Tuesday we will use the equipment to move up to and sleep at Camp 2. Camp 2 is quite high being around 7,000mts (or 23,100ft) or the height of Mt Aconcagua. So the move to Camp 2 will be a big move, but will really contribute to our acclimatization program. Then on Wednesday we plan to return back to ABC (and the internet).

We are all strong and looking forward to going higher. And the weather continues to cooperate.

Rest Day at ABC

Perfect day here at ABC. We just had breakfast and conference. The decision was made to take an unscheduled rest day here at ABC. While everyone is feeling good and strong, a rest day will really solidify our team.

I can't believe I'm in Lhasa!

Greetings from very sunny and hot Lhasa. (Sep 14th)

After spending 2 days in Beijing we took the train to Lhasa at 9.30pm on Sep 11th. Boarding the train was quite an experience: 4 of us got cut off from our group and guide (with our tickets) - people in China don't really have a concept of lining up or queueing - so after a bit of a panic we just 'ran' the gate and made it to our carriage anyway! Got settled and got comfy for the trip, which takes just under 48 hours. All in all the trip was enjoyable: the scenery on day 2 was spectacular! The sleeping arrangements worked out well. From the 2nd night onwards the train was being 'flooded' with extra oxygen which made the travel experience at high altitude very bearable. The train does go up to 5000m and stays over 4500m for most of the day. Last night at 8.15pm we arrived in Lhasa, nicely on schedule.

Some of us decided against the group dinner last night. I guess after 48 hours on the train a shower and proper bed were just to hard to resist!

This morning I felt very good considering we are at 3700m (without extra oxygen!). We had a busy day already: visited the Jokhang Palace this morning and the Sera Monastery with the debating monks this afternoon. I have a slight headache off and on - nothing that actually bothers me.

We will spend 3 more nights here in Lhasa which will definitely help the acclimatization.

I still can't believe I'm in Lhasa!!!! For me the trip started in earnest with the train trip; Beijing was a little bit deja-vu.

Signing off from Lhasa.

First Night at Camp 1

Just returned from Camp 1 where the team spent the night. We had to carry all our cold weather down and all our sleeping equipment, the total weight was probably around 12kgs or 26lbs, up to Camp 1. Let's just say the climb up to Camp 1 with this weight was rather brutual.

We are back at ABC now recovering from the climb. At present, the plan is to return Camp 1 for a night and a rest day. Then a second night at Camp 1 before we attempt to move equipment up to Camp 2 and spent a night. And then return to ABC. This of course, is all dependent on weather and the team strength. Weather seems to be turning slightly but still ok to travel in. The team remains strong.

Rest Days at Advanced Base Camp

We spent the last 2 days just relaxing in ABC. Rest days are like weekends for us. We do not have to do anything. Tomorrow we move up to Camp 1 and spend the night, so we are all getting excited about this.

Weather continues to be wonderful. If only it would last for another 2 weeks :-)

Carry to Camp 1

A very big day yesterday. We carried from Advance Base Camp at 5,650mts (18,500ft) to Camp 1 which is at 6,320mts (or 20,00ft). This took us 6 hours up and 3 hours down. We were all pretty tired at the end of this hike. So today (9/11) and tomorrow (9/12) we are resting.

Weather here at the moment is wonderful, beautiful sunny skies with no wind. We have been advised by the Weather Consultant that the monsoon season ended a few days ok. So we are hoping the weather will remain reasonably stable for the next few weeks.

The next big day is on Thursday (9/13) when we move up to Camp 1 and spend the night and then we will return to ABC and the next posting. All part of the acclimatization program.

Greetings from Beijing.

I arrived safe and well and with my bags in Beijing and made it to my hotel without problems. We had a group meeting at 6pm, so met the others in my group. Seems like a good crowd. We have 5 people from the Bay Area (incl. me), 1 other Belgian (Flemish), 1 French Canadian (my roommate for now), 1 French, 4 Brits and 2 Irish. Our guide is a Kiwi believe it or not!

Re-visited the Wall today and that was very good, even a second time. Will relax a bit now, grab a bite to eat with Nathalie (roommate) and then off to see a Kung-Fu show.

So all is well!

Travel updates in our travelblog

For news on our trips please go to our travelblog: easiest is to go to our 'Home' page, and then click the link above the photo: 'Current Trip - ...'.

Stephen just called me! From the Mountain! On a satellite phone!

It was sooooo good to hear his voice!!!! And perfect timing, since I'm leaving on my trip tomorrow early morning!

He said he is feeling good and strong and so is the team (apart from some headaches, but hopefully after a few days at ABC those will disappear).

There is a change in the email address, should you wish to email Stephen:
Send emails to climb@alpineascents.com and in the subject line write: 'Cho Oyu Stephen Coney'. These emails go to Alpine Ascents where they get checked for attachments (which will be removed) and then get forwarded to Stephen on the mountain. There will be about a 24hr delay between you sending the email and Stephen getting it. That's the way the system works. I for one think it's rather amazing that they are able to get email on the mountain!

Go Stephen!

2 more sleeps...

On August 25th I dropped Stephen off at the airport and he started his current adventure. As you can learn from his posts and the cybercasts, all is going well and according to plan.

In 2 days time it's my turn to take off for my adventure - can't wait! I feel like I've been sitting around the last week or so just waiting to board my plane. As of today I'm officially packed.
Not too sure how much access to email I will have, but when I do I will post inour travel blog.

So stay tuned!

To Tingri

Ok, one more internet session before we make the 10 hours trip in the bus to the town of Tingri.  And we move away from the relative luxury we have been enjoying.  Our cultural liason officier claims that there are no more monasteries to visit, but I am not so convinced.  It will apparently be a bumpy journey as the road is not paved.

 

To see some photos of the trip and to read the journal of one of my climbing companions, please visit http://www.garydbacon.com/

 

The weather continues to cooperate with us with rain only occuring over night.  Singing off for real this time from Shigatse.

To Shigatse

In the morning we visited the monastery of Gyantse.  I have now seen more Buddhas than I ever imagined possible.  After the tour the troup made the short trip to Shigatse and guess what, we visited the local Zhashenlunbu Temple.

 

Well that is it for the cultural aspect of the trip.  As tomorrow we head further into the mountains.  And there will be no more Internet, except over the Satellite system at ABC (Advanced Base Camp).  And we will not be at ABC for about 7 more days.  So in the meantime follow along at http://www.alpineascents.com/cho-oyu-cybercast.asp

Travel to Gyantse

Spent 9 hours on the bus travelling east away from Lhasa towards the mountains and the bustling town of Gyantse.  Very beautiful scenery during the drive to get here.  We also did several hours on back country roads, barely 4wd tracks.  I was at the back of the bus and it was extremely bumpy.

 

Enroute we visited a factory that makes incense sticks.  Quite incredible as the factory is located on the banks of the river where they divert water to drive wooden grinders which produce the incense.  No buildings, no electricity, no nothing.  Also visited a factory which grinds barley to produce a flour like substance.  Again, all driven off water power.  Living here in rural China is very simple.

 

It will take another three days in the Bus to get to Chinese Base Camp.  And then two more days of hiking to get to Advanced Base Camp.  I am really getting ready to do some upward hiking.  Guess I will just have to be patient. 

Last Night in Lhasa

Had to do one more blog entry before leaving Lhasa.  Tonight we had the traditional Tibetan dinner complete with local singing and dancing.  Followed by several drinks in the "Travellers Bar".  Our little group joined up with the Norwegian all-woman Cho Oyu  team to exchange climbing stories.  This was serious work, and I don't want people to think we are having fun :-)

 

On the road tomorrow and may not have internet access.  Hard to get a straight story on this topic.  Otherwise I will blog from the mountain.

Lhasa - day 2

Spent the morning visiting the Drepung Monastery about 10kms from Lhasa.  Very interesting as the monks were in session and doing a huge amount of praying.  In the afternoon half the team (including me) headed up the local hill.  Just to stretch our legs and look down upon Lhasa.  The hill was covered in pray flags.  But for me, it was great to get out after spending so much time in hotel rooms.

 

Weather on this side of the mountain is being kind to us, only raining during the night time.  We are a little concerned about the equipment coming overland from Nepal as the rains on the southern side of the mountain have not abated.

 

Getting to know my climber buddies and the guides, they all seem very nice.  Which is a very good thing.  Tomorrow we leave Lhasa for Gyantse (12,960).  Looking forward to heading towards the mountains.

Debating Monks

Spent the afternoon visiting another monastry.  The most exciting part was watching the young monks battle it out with the older monks in the open debating.  Very animated indeed.

Potala Palace

Just spent the morning visiting the Potala Palace.  Basically the Palace was built in the 7th Century and extended in the 17th Century by the 5th Dalai Lama.  The place is huge with rooms upon rooms of Buddha's and other relics.  Getting to know my fellow climbers a bit better now.  More culture this afternoon.  Hope it involves food.

Arrived in Lhasa (with all my bags)

You heard it right.  In Lhasa with all my bags.  This is a very good thing.  Lhasa is the official start of the trip, so now we are in the capable hands of our Guides.  Tonight we are all taking it easy, what with the air being so thin.  It is a little over 12,000 feet. 

We will be in Lhasa for the rest of today and two more days of sight-seeing.  So at the moment we are all drinking water and starting the acclimatization program.  Then we head into the mountains.

Signing off from a very sunny Lhasa.

Greetings from Beijing

Well, me and my bags made it safely to Beijing.  Spent the day doing the tourist thing, first up was a stiff hike along the Great Wall of China then shopping in a Jade Museum and lunching in a shop.  In the afternoon we visited the Forbidden Palace followed by a Tea Ceremony and topped off with a tour of a Silk Factory (or shop).  Plenty of spending opportunities.  So now, it is time to find a bar and a long cold beer.

 

Tomorrow got to get up at 4:00am to catch a flight to Lhasa.  Not looking forward to this.  Signing off from a very warm Beijing.

Travelling Again

As most of you know, we are travelling again soon.
Stephen is leaving on August 25th and will travel through China and Tibet en route to climb Cho Oyu.
Caroline is leaving two weeks later and will travel through China, Tibet and Nepal.

Links and information for Stephen's trip:

Itinerary

Information on Cho Oyu

Follow Stephen's adventures with the Alpine Ascents Cybercast

The cybercasts get posted just about every weekday (so not on weekends or holidays) which makes it possible to follow Stephen's climb very closely.

Stephen will/may have some access to email along the way and at Advanced Basecamp on Cho Oyu. However, the connection will be very slow and has to be shared by all, so should you want to send him an email, please keep it short and no attachments. The email address is stephenonchooyu@yahoo.com. He will, whenever possible, post an update on our website.

He will be back home in San Francisco on Oct 6th - give or take a few days depending on the weather and climbing conditions on the mountain.


Links and information for Caroline's trip:

She is leaving on September 8th and gets back to SF on Oct 8th.
She may have some access to email and when that is the case she will post an update on our website. Please also no big emails or attachments for the duration of the trip.
Her itinerary is as follows:

Tibet Adventure (Sep 9 to Sep 22)

Nepal: Annapurna Sanctuary Trek (Sep 23 to Oct 6)

Caroline's trip to Belgium and London - July 2007.

On this trip I spent 4 days in Gent, 4 in Eeklo en 2,5 in London.
I enjoyed a few days 'Gentse Feesten' and caught up with family and friends. Despite catching up with lots of people I had some good quality time with all of them.
I feasted on my favorite foods and drinks: mosselen, paling, garnalen, waterzooi, hoegaarden,... had a couple of barbecues,...
I had a wonderful time.
Here is a selection of photos.

Wellington

Caroline caught up with family and friends in and around Wellington while getting to know the city a bit better.
photos

Sep/Oct 2007 travel plans for Caroline

While Stephen goes mountain-hopping on Cho Oyu (see our post from Dec 13, 2006), I am planning to do some traveling as well. I have booked 2 tours:

The first tour is with GAP Adventures.
Here's the actual itinerary.

The second trip is with 3 Sisters Adventure Trekking. I will do the 'Annapurna Sanctuary Teahouse Trek' - Sep 24 departure - with them. Here is that itinerary.

O'ahu 2006-2007

We went on a little break for the New Year's period to O'ahu, one of the main Hawaiian Islands.
The weather was tropical and gorgeous; Waikiki and surf-beaches were crowded, others less so; the vegetation was lush; the whole atmosphere was laid back.
Here are some photos of our little getaway.