We are done on Cho Oyu

Well we finally made our move up the mountain as part of the summit push. On Thursday (9/27) we headed up to Camp 1 in good weather. We were all very pleased to be heading up and on our summit push. Unfortunately the weather overnight and Camp 1 was not brilliant. But on Friday (9/28) we moved up to Camp 2 in some very bad weather. The wind was nailing us on the fixed lines. Overall we made good time up to Camp 2. Once at Camp 2, the weather just got worse and worse. I am amazed that the tents survived the night. The wind howled from about 4:00pm right through the night and into Saturday. So the guides decided to cancel the summit push. So today has been a very long day. We down climbed from Camp 2 back to ABC. We are now all back at ABC having a late dinner and shortly to have some beers. No summit this year for us. We are all strong and safe. We are at ABC for another few days as we pack up. So I will send for information shortly.

Weather Weather Weather

Looks like another day at ABC. Although there are some signs that the weather might actually be clearing. This is day 7 that we have had to hunker down at ABC. And it is becoming a bit of a drag. The snowing of the last few days continues this morning, so I am sure they will ask us to dig out our tents this afternoon - grrrrrr.

We only have a few days more weather days left in the schedule before we will have to abort this season's attempt. So please, keep your fingers crossed that this miserable weather passes over us and the good weather returns.

Yet Another Forced Weather Day

That's right - yet another day at ABC.

The tropical depression is starting to dissipate, but we still have high winds and blowing snowing. So we are hunkered down at ABC. Many of the other teams are retreating from higher up on the mountain and there are even reports that tents have been blown out. Looks like it could be a late season this year.

So please, continue to keep your fingers crossed. Signing out from a cold and miserable ABC.

Another Forced Weather Day at ABC

We woke up to snowing conditions. While the snowing conditions would not stop us moving up to Camp 1, the forecast for tomorrow is for much more snow. So we decided that we did not want to spend the day trapped at Camp 1. The decision was to take our third weather day here in the relative luxury of ABC.

The forecast is still for better weather on 9/26 through 9/28. So please keep your fingers crossed that we will be able to head up soon.

Arrived in Pokhara.

We enjoyed our last group dinner last night in Kathmandu and most of us were sad that the adventure was over. I was sad on the one hand that the first part of my trip was over (and a good first part it was) and excited on the other hand about the second part of my trip. This morning's flight from Kathmandu to Pokhara is without a doubt the shortest and most spectacular I have ever done: I scored a seat on the right side of the plane and got a-ma-zing views of the Himalayas, in particular the Annapurna's (in the midst of which I will be hiking from tomorrow). The mountains were higher than our flight path. I received a warm welcome at the Chhetri Sister's guesthouse. Went out to change some money and upon my return was told that Stephen called!!!! He will call again at 5pm today, so I will be sitting next to that phone from 4.30pm!!!!!! So tomorrow my trekking adventure starts; I am very excited about it. I'm hoping it will be a positive and challenging experience. This will be my last post till Oct 5 or 6, when I get back from my trek.

Still at ABC

The weather is not cooperating with us as much as we would like. A tropical depression in the Bay of Bengal is having the effect of forecasted high winds in our region on the 25th and 26th. So we have delayed the start of our Summit Push, with the hope of catching better weather once this system blows through. The jet-stream still remains to the North, so we have time before that hits. Other than the weather we are all ready to head high. The most likely schedule is now

- Monday (9/24) - Move to Camp 1
- Tuesday (9/25) - Move to Camp 2 (this is a long day)
- Wednesday (9/26) - Move to Camp 3 (have not done this yet!)
- Thursday (9/27) - Summit!!!! (return to Camp 2)
- Friday (9/28) - Return to ABC.

Or maybe a day behind the above schedule. It is hard to tell with this weather stuff.

So another beautiful day here at ABC. The sun is shinning, the wind is low, the temperatures is around the mid-teens (Celsius) and we have a wonderful view of Mt Cho Oyu.

Made it to Kathmandu!

We arrived here a few hours ago and after doing some much needed hand-washing I went looking for an internet place straight away!

The trip since Shigatse:

So, after a morning visit to the Tashilhunpo Monastery in Shigatse (home of the Panchen Lama or 2nd Lama) we did the 3 hour drive to Sakya where, upon arrival, we visited our last monastery of the trip. I decided to relax for the rest of the afternoon, to get a bit better acclimatized, and enjoyed a nice bath.

On Thu Sep 20 we had an early start: 6am breakfast to get away at 7am for the drive to Rombuk. Went over some spectacular passes and got our first look at Qomolangma (the Tibetan name for Everest) around 10am - we were all in awe!!!! What an amazing sight to actually see Everest with my own eyes!!!!!

And yes, we also got good views of Cho Oyu, Stephen's mountain. Some of us waved!!

We arrived at Rombuk guesthouse (very basic but good fun) at 5050m - quite a bit higher than that morning - around 2pm. Had lunch and set off for a 5km walk to Everest Base Camp at 5200m. I am proud to say that I walked there (but took a donkey cart back, to try and beat some nasty weather back to the guesthouse).

I actually took the altitude quite well: was a bit short of breath but slept well.

The next morning we woke up to see that it had snowed overnight.

Yesterday we drove from Rombuk to Zhang Mu, on the Chinese side of the border with Nepal. The scenery was spectacular but the drive at some times hair-curling! But all went well and we arrived around 8.30pm.

And then this morning (Sat Sep 22), we crossed the border into Nepal and drove to Kathmandu.

Do I need to say it: again spectacular scenery and beautiful weather. And a less hair-curling drive!

Tonight we have our last group dinner...

... and then tomorrow the second part of my trip starts.

Tomorrow morning I fly from Kathmandu to Pokhara to start my trek on the 24th.

I expect to have email tomorrow in the guesthouse where I'm staying.

Naturally I will not have email access during the trek - I get back to the guesthouse on Oct 5; I will email again that day or on the 6th!

I am looking forward to my trek and if the weather will be anything like it has been on this first part... well let's say that things just can't go wrong then!!!!!

Signing off from Kathmandu,

Getting Ready for the Summit Push

Well, the weather up high is looking good. The detailed weather forecasts are now starting to trickle in. Also today, a Sherpa team went above Camp 3 to fix the last of the fixed lines. So everything is looking good to commence the Summit push tomorrow.

Later today we are having Oxygen school. This is where we learn how to use our Oxygen system. We will be sleeping on about 1/2 litre of Oxygen at Camp 3 and will be making our Summit attempt on the same amount of Oxygen. The Sherpas have been busy making sure we have enough Oxygen at Camp 3.

So, just in case I do not get another chance at this Internet terminal, here is the plan for the next 5 Days.

- Saturday (9/22) - Move to Camp 1
- Sunday (9/23) - Move to Camp 2 (this is a long day)
- Monday (9/24) - Move to Camp 3 (have not done this yet!)
- Tuesday (9/25) - Summit!!!! (return to Camp 2)
- Wednesday (9/26) - Return to ABC.

There is not much wriggle-room in the schedule, as there is no extra food or Oxygen for extended time up high. As I can not get to the Internet during this period, please follow along on the Alpine Ascents Cybercast.

We are all getting pretty excited now. So keep your fingers crossed for good weather.

Camp 2

Just returned from our acclimatization climb to Camp 2. We hiked to Camp 1 on Monday and spent both Monday and Tuesday night at Camp 1. Then we hiked from Camp 1 to Camp 2 which is a considerably more difficult climb. It is a little more technical with sections of ice climbs and about 40% of the route has fixed lines. It was a tough climb and the air was very thin. So today (Thursday) and tomorrow (Friday) we rest. We will start getting detailed weather reports, but it looks like we will start our summit attempt on Saturday. The team is feeling very positive.

It is currently beautiful sunny weather here at Advanced Base Camp. I think I might wash my hair this afternoon.

Hello from Shigatse!

The Potala Palace - what can I say! So far that was the emotional highlight for me: standing outside the little room where the 14th (current) Dalai Lama studied as a boy, brought a tear to my eye.

On Mon Sep 17 we left Lhasa at 9am for a long but rewarding drive to Gyantse.

Our transport consists of 4 Toyota Landcruisers, so rather comfortable with 5 to a car: driver and 4 passengers (14 in our group, our guide Tristan and our local Tibetan guide). We made 2 detours: the first to 4800m to gawk at one of 4 'holy lakes' - amazing blue color; the second was off-road to look at and play on some sanddunes - good fun and good to be out of the cars for 30-40mins.

We arrived in Gyantse (4000m) around 6pm - just in time for dinner.

This morning (Tue Sep 18) we visited the Monastery in Gyantse: we had 2 hours to explore the place at our own pace, so some of us climbed the immense Stupa and relaxed on top of it for a while.

Around noon we set off for a 2 hour drive to Shigatse, where I am now. We had a late lunch here and are now free to explore the 2nd biggest city of Tibet.

This will also be the last time I have access to internet until either Kathmandu (depending on how early/late we arrive there) on Sat Sep 22, or Pokhara on Sun Sep 23rd.

After this I'm off to the local markets.

Schedule for the next few days:

Tomorrow Wed Sep 19 we drive to Sakya (4300m)

On Thu Sep 20 we drive to Rombuk (5000m) and we have a chance to walk to Everest Base Camp at 5200m - but that will depend on how the height agrees with me or vice versa!

Fri Sep 21: to Zhang Mu (2300m) - border town.

Sat Sep 22: cross the border into Nepal and onto Kathmandu.

On Sun Sep 23 I have a very early flight from Kathmandu to Pokhara. I hope to post again from my guesthouse there before I start my hike!

Yes, I'm having a great time!!!!

Signing of from sunny Shigatse!

Day 3 in Lhasa.

I'm enjoying every moment of my time in Lhasa!

Yesterday we had a free day and 11 of us chartered a minivan to go and visit the Ganden Monastery 1.5 to 2 hours outside of Lhasa (depends on whether one's van has a flat tire or not).

The Monastery is at 4.300m, so about 500m higher than Lhasa. We did a 1 hour walk around the mountain at the back of the Monastery and the views were just spectacular. We then had an hour left to explore the Monastery.

Last night we had a group dinner: buffet style food - very nice - and some entertainment put on by the ever-smiling staff afterwards.

Another brilliant day. We are also having great weather: yesterday was very warm again; last night it rained and we heard some serious thunder; today looks like it will be fine again.

This afternoon we are visiting the Potala Palace... can't wait!

Tomorrow we leave at 9am to drive to Gyantse.

Tashi delek from Lhasa!

To Camp 2

Another perfect weather day here at ABC. Most likely we will move up to Camp 1 today and spend Monday getting ready for the move to Camp 2 and resting a little. Will we take all our mountaineering hardware and snow travel clothing up to Camp 1 today. Then on Tuesday we will use the equipment to move up to and sleep at Camp 2. Camp 2 is quite high being around 7,000mts (or 23,100ft) or the height of Mt Aconcagua. So the move to Camp 2 will be a big move, but will really contribute to our acclimatization program. Then on Wednesday we plan to return back to ABC (and the internet).

We are all strong and looking forward to going higher. And the weather continues to cooperate.

Rest Day at ABC

Perfect day here at ABC. We just had breakfast and conference. The decision was made to take an unscheduled rest day here at ABC. While everyone is feeling good and strong, a rest day will really solidify our team.

I can't believe I'm in Lhasa!

Greetings from very sunny and hot Lhasa. (Sep 14th)

After spending 2 days in Beijing we took the train to Lhasa at 9.30pm on Sep 11th. Boarding the train was quite an experience: 4 of us got cut off from our group and guide (with our tickets) - people in China don't really have a concept of lining up or queueing - so after a bit of a panic we just 'ran' the gate and made it to our carriage anyway! Got settled and got comfy for the trip, which takes just under 48 hours. All in all the trip was enjoyable: the scenery on day 2 was spectacular! The sleeping arrangements worked out well. From the 2nd night onwards the train was being 'flooded' with extra oxygen which made the travel experience at high altitude very bearable. The train does go up to 5000m and stays over 4500m for most of the day. Last night at 8.15pm we arrived in Lhasa, nicely on schedule.

Some of us decided against the group dinner last night. I guess after 48 hours on the train a shower and proper bed were just to hard to resist!

This morning I felt very good considering we are at 3700m (without extra oxygen!). We had a busy day already: visited the Jokhang Palace this morning and the Sera Monastery with the debating monks this afternoon. I have a slight headache off and on - nothing that actually bothers me.

We will spend 3 more nights here in Lhasa which will definitely help the acclimatization.

I still can't believe I'm in Lhasa!!!! For me the trip started in earnest with the train trip; Beijing was a little bit deja-vu.

Signing off from Lhasa.

First Night at Camp 1

Just returned from Camp 1 where the team spent the night. We had to carry all our cold weather down and all our sleeping equipment, the total weight was probably around 12kgs or 26lbs, up to Camp 1. Let's just say the climb up to Camp 1 with this weight was rather brutual.

We are back at ABC now recovering from the climb. At present, the plan is to return Camp 1 for a night and a rest day. Then a second night at Camp 1 before we attempt to move equipment up to Camp 2 and spent a night. And then return to ABC. This of course, is all dependent on weather and the team strength. Weather seems to be turning slightly but still ok to travel in. The team remains strong.

Rest Days at Advanced Base Camp

We spent the last 2 days just relaxing in ABC. Rest days are like weekends for us. We do not have to do anything. Tomorrow we move up to Camp 1 and spend the night, so we are all getting excited about this.

Weather continues to be wonderful. If only it would last for another 2 weeks :-)

Carry to Camp 1

A very big day yesterday. We carried from Advance Base Camp at 5,650mts (18,500ft) to Camp 1 which is at 6,320mts (or 20,00ft). This took us 6 hours up and 3 hours down. We were all pretty tired at the end of this hike. So today (9/11) and tomorrow (9/12) we are resting.

Weather here at the moment is wonderful, beautiful sunny skies with no wind. We have been advised by the Weather Consultant that the monsoon season ended a few days ok. So we are hoping the weather will remain reasonably stable for the next few weeks.

The next big day is on Thursday (9/13) when we move up to Camp 1 and spend the night and then we will return to ABC and the next posting. All part of the acclimatization program.

Greetings from Beijing.

I arrived safe and well and with my bags in Beijing and made it to my hotel without problems. We had a group meeting at 6pm, so met the others in my group. Seems like a good crowd. We have 5 people from the Bay Area (incl. me), 1 other Belgian (Flemish), 1 French Canadian (my roommate for now), 1 French, 4 Brits and 2 Irish. Our guide is a Kiwi believe it or not!

Re-visited the Wall today and that was very good, even a second time. Will relax a bit now, grab a bite to eat with Nathalie (roommate) and then off to see a Kung-Fu show.

So all is well!

Travel updates in our travelblog

For news on our trips please go to our travelblog: easiest is to go to our 'Home' page, and then click the link above the photo: 'Current Trip - ...'.

Stephen just called me! From the Mountain! On a satellite phone!

It was sooooo good to hear his voice!!!! And perfect timing, since I'm leaving on my trip tomorrow early morning!

He said he is feeling good and strong and so is the team (apart from some headaches, but hopefully after a few days at ABC those will disappear).

There is a change in the email address, should you wish to email Stephen:
Send emails to climb@alpineascents.com and in the subject line write: 'Cho Oyu Stephen Coney'. These emails go to Alpine Ascents where they get checked for attachments (which will be removed) and then get forwarded to Stephen on the mountain. There will be about a 24hr delay between you sending the email and Stephen getting it. That's the way the system works. I for one think it's rather amazing that they are able to get email on the mountain!

Go Stephen!

2 more sleeps...

On August 25th I dropped Stephen off at the airport and he started his current adventure. As you can learn from his posts and the cybercasts, all is going well and according to plan.

In 2 days time it's my turn to take off for my adventure - can't wait! I feel like I've been sitting around the last week or so just waiting to board my plane. As of today I'm officially packed.
Not too sure how much access to email I will have, but when I do I will post inour travel blog.

So stay tuned!

To Tingri

Ok, one more internet session before we make the 10 hours trip in the bus to the town of Tingri.  And we move away from the relative luxury we have been enjoying.  Our cultural liason officier claims that there are no more monasteries to visit, but I am not so convinced.  It will apparently be a bumpy journey as the road is not paved.

 

To see some photos of the trip and to read the journal of one of my climbing companions, please visit http://www.garydbacon.com/

 

The weather continues to cooperate with us with rain only occuring over night.  Singing off for real this time from Shigatse.

To Shigatse

In the morning we visited the monastery of Gyantse.  I have now seen more Buddhas than I ever imagined possible.  After the tour the troup made the short trip to Shigatse and guess what, we visited the local Zhashenlunbu Temple.

 

Well that is it for the cultural aspect of the trip.  As tomorrow we head further into the mountains.  And there will be no more Internet, except over the Satellite system at ABC (Advanced Base Camp).  And we will not be at ABC for about 7 more days.  So in the meantime follow along at http://www.alpineascents.com/cho-oyu-cybercast.asp