On the morning of Sep 23rd I flew from Kathmandu to Pokhara, where I checked into the Chhetri Sisters Guesthouse. I received a very warm and relaxed welcome there. This is the guesthouse of the same company I had booked my Annapurna Sanctuary Tea-House Trek with. I went for a walk in Pokhara, changed some money and enjoyed views of Phewa Lake, all much more relaxed than Kathmandu.
That evening I met Francis, my trekking partner; our guide, Nirma; and our 2 porters, Bima and Dhana.
The next morning we embarked on our trekking adventure. Where the weather had been very nice up till that moment it started drizzling the moment we stepped out of the van and onto the trail. And it basically rained for the first 6 days of the trek. The first few days we had some dry spells; the last 2 days it simply poured down the whole time.
And then, on day 7, the weather cleared: blue skies and sun for the second half of the trek, which meant we actually had views! This was the day that we hiked upto and into ABC (Annapurna Basecamp South) and it was breathtakingly stunning. Like walking into a huge cauldron rimmed with high peaks.
I could go into a day-to-day account of the trek, but I won't bore you with that here. Suffice it to say that it was probably the hardest thing I have ever done (specially mentally) and in the end it was very rewarding. I came away from that adventure with a very good feeling and a huge sense of achievement.
I would also like to mention that Francis and I got on very well, we were very well-suited trekking partners.
Our porters, Bima and Dhana, did a great job, I have no doubt that in a few years they will be excellent guides.
And last but not least: Nirma (our guide): she was simply the best. I could not have done it without her. It was her strength and professionalism that got me through day 6 (for me the most difficult day for various reasons).
The trek in pictures.
Bonus album: Mountains from above.
Chhetri Sisters or 3 Sisters Adventure Trekking.
Chhetri Sisters' amazing project: Empowering the Women of Nepal. I was lucky to be able to meet all 3 sisters.
Thursday, October 11, 2007
Tibet/China: The Albums
Peking/Beijing Revisited Photos
Since I had been in Beijing in 2005 and at that time also visited the Great Wall and the Forbidden City, I did not take many photos this time. For more see the album of 2005.
Train Journey Beijing - Lhasa Photos
We embarked on the almost 48 hour train journey in Beijing on Sep 11 at 9pm to arrive in Lhasa on Sep 13 around 8pm, and although the trip was fine and exciting in its own way, it was no Orient Express (not that I've ever been on that one!).
The facilities on the train get a tad 'overused' to say the least and clean-up is not always done promptly. The staff are constantly smoking under the 'no-smoking' signs so of course many of the locals (read 'Chinese') follow their example.
Our group had bunks in the 'hard-sleeper' section; we all kinda hoped for the soft-sleepers but somehow our travel company (or guide) did not manage to secure these. In the end the hard-sleepers worked out fine.
From the 2nd night onwards oxygen was pumped through the train, so most of us did not feel the altitude during the trip (the train does go the 5000m), except for some light-headedness and some headaches here and there.
The views, specially on day 2, are what really makes this trip worthwhile!
Lhasa Photos
We spent 3days/4nights in Lhasa, which made it a non-rushed visit and helped with acclimatization since Lhasa is at 3700m. We had time to explore the city and make a side trip.
We visited the Jokhang, Tibet's most sacred religious place, and the adjoining Barkhor Square and Circuit.
It was fascinating to watch the debating monks at the Sera Monastery; at times I didn't know whether to feel happy to witness this or to feel intrusive...
Our managed to get a sidetrip organized to the Ganden Monastery (about 40km northeast of Lhasa.) The views from the Kora (walk around the Monastery) were simply stunning.
And then there was the Potala Palace. We almost didn't make it... our guide kept telling us that there was a very real possibility that we wouldn't get tickets... and almost seemed happy to leave it at that... he also dismissed the Palace as 'a big building with lots of empty rooms'... Four members of our group then took it upon themselves to go and line up early in the morning to secure tickets for the group (and thank you to them for that). For most of us this was one of the highlights of the trip (I mean... being in Lhasa and not visiting the Potala?!).
There also was time to explore on our own and we had some nice dinners and lunches (thanks to good restaurant choices of our guide).
Gyantse Photos
On the morning of Sep 17th we left Lhasa in 4 Toyota Landrovers and started the long day's drive towards Gyantse. We made 2 detours.
The first one was about 1.5 hours out of Lhasa when we drove up and up to gaze down at beautiful Lake Yamdrok-Tso, one of Tibet's 4 holy lakes.
The second took us on dirt roads to some impressive sanddunes.
In Gyantse we visited the Pelkor Chode Monastery and with the Gyantse Kumbum (a round structure of 35m high).
Shigatse Photos
On Sep 18th around noon we did the short, 2 hour drive from Gyantse to Shigatse and there we had the afternoon free. The next day we visited the Tashilhunpo Monastery (the seat of the Panchen Lama). After a late lunch we did the 3 hour drive to Sakya, which took us through a high pass and beautiful scenery. Visited the Sakya Monastery upon arrival, the last of the monasteries on the itinerary. I enjoyed all of them.
Everest Photos
Early in the morning of Sep 20th we started our journey towards Rombuk and Everest Basecamp (EBC). We entered the Qomolangma (Tibetan name for Everest) National Park and although it still took a while before we saw The Big One, the scenery was spectacular! When we got our first views of Everest and got out of the cars to gaze, gawk, stand in awe,... and take pictures, we were almost immediately ushered back in the cars by our guide (saying that we'd have more opportunities later). The group kind of ignored that for at least 10 more mins... he might have seen this 4 times already, for us it was the first time! It was Everest!!
We arrived at the Rombuk guesthouse around 2pm, had lunch and set off towards EBC (some of us on foot, like me, others in donkey carts). So I made it to EBC at 5200m!!! And beat Stephen to it!!!! For the rest of the day we huddled together in the cozy common room of the guesthouse.
That night it snowed so the landscape we drove through the next morning was eerily transformed.
That day we drove via Nyalam (where we had to wait for the road to open in our direction - there are roadworks going on and the road does not exactly lean itself to 2-way traffic) to the bordertown of Zhang-Mu, to cross into Nepal the day after.
People of Tibet Bonus Album
Enjoy this selection of photos of my Tibetan Adventure. I enjoyed it immensely!
Caroline.
Since I had been in Beijing in 2005 and at that time also visited the Great Wall and the Forbidden City, I did not take many photos this time. For more see the album of 2005.
Train Journey Beijing - Lhasa Photos
We embarked on the almost 48 hour train journey in Beijing on Sep 11 at 9pm to arrive in Lhasa on Sep 13 around 8pm, and although the trip was fine and exciting in its own way, it was no Orient Express (not that I've ever been on that one!).
The facilities on the train get a tad 'overused' to say the least and clean-up is not always done promptly. The staff are constantly smoking under the 'no-smoking' signs so of course many of the locals (read 'Chinese') follow their example.
Our group had bunks in the 'hard-sleeper' section; we all kinda hoped for the soft-sleepers but somehow our travel company (or guide) did not manage to secure these. In the end the hard-sleepers worked out fine.
From the 2nd night onwards oxygen was pumped through the train, so most of us did not feel the altitude during the trip (the train does go the 5000m), except for some light-headedness and some headaches here and there.
The views, specially on day 2, are what really makes this trip worthwhile!
Lhasa Photos
We spent 3days/4nights in Lhasa, which made it a non-rushed visit and helped with acclimatization since Lhasa is at 3700m. We had time to explore the city and make a side trip.
We visited the Jokhang, Tibet's most sacred religious place, and the adjoining Barkhor Square and Circuit.
It was fascinating to watch the debating monks at the Sera Monastery; at times I didn't know whether to feel happy to witness this or to feel intrusive...
Our managed to get a sidetrip organized to the Ganden Monastery (about 40km northeast of Lhasa.) The views from the Kora (walk around the Monastery) were simply stunning.
And then there was the Potala Palace. We almost didn't make it... our guide kept telling us that there was a very real possibility that we wouldn't get tickets... and almost seemed happy to leave it at that... he also dismissed the Palace as 'a big building with lots of empty rooms'... Four members of our group then took it upon themselves to go and line up early in the morning to secure tickets for the group (and thank you to them for that). For most of us this was one of the highlights of the trip (I mean... being in Lhasa and not visiting the Potala?!).
There also was time to explore on our own and we had some nice dinners and lunches (thanks to good restaurant choices of our guide).
Gyantse Photos
On the morning of Sep 17th we left Lhasa in 4 Toyota Landrovers and started the long day's drive towards Gyantse. We made 2 detours.
The first one was about 1.5 hours out of Lhasa when we drove up and up to gaze down at beautiful Lake Yamdrok-Tso, one of Tibet's 4 holy lakes.
The second took us on dirt roads to some impressive sanddunes.
In Gyantse we visited the Pelkor Chode Monastery and with the Gyantse Kumbum (a round structure of 35m high).
Shigatse Photos
On Sep 18th around noon we did the short, 2 hour drive from Gyantse to Shigatse and there we had the afternoon free. The next day we visited the Tashilhunpo Monastery (the seat of the Panchen Lama). After a late lunch we did the 3 hour drive to Sakya, which took us through a high pass and beautiful scenery. Visited the Sakya Monastery upon arrival, the last of the monasteries on the itinerary. I enjoyed all of them.
Everest Photos
Early in the morning of Sep 20th we started our journey towards Rombuk and Everest Basecamp (EBC). We entered the Qomolangma (Tibetan name for Everest) National Park and although it still took a while before we saw The Big One, the scenery was spectacular! When we got our first views of Everest and got out of the cars to gaze, gawk, stand in awe,... and take pictures, we were almost immediately ushered back in the cars by our guide (saying that we'd have more opportunities later). The group kind of ignored that for at least 10 more mins... he might have seen this 4 times already, for us it was the first time! It was Everest!!
We arrived at the Rombuk guesthouse around 2pm, had lunch and set off towards EBC (some of us on foot, like me, others in donkey carts). So I made it to EBC at 5200m!!! And beat Stephen to it!!!! For the rest of the day we huddled together in the cozy common room of the guesthouse.
That night it snowed so the landscape we drove through the next morning was eerily transformed.
That day we drove via Nyalam (where we had to wait for the road to open in our direction - there are roadworks going on and the road does not exactly lean itself to 2-way traffic) to the bordertown of Zhang-Mu, to cross into Nepal the day after.
People of Tibet Bonus Album
Enjoy this selection of photos of my Tibetan Adventure. I enjoyed it immensely!
Caroline.
Monday, October 8, 2007
Both back home!
Stephen arrived back home yesterday; I'm home since this morning.
I was in the middle of putting an update here a few days ago, when the power went. Haven't had access to email since, until getting back home. Will update very soon!!!!
I was in the middle of putting an update here a few days ago, when the power went. Haven't had access to email since, until getting back home. Will update very soon!!!!
Thursday, October 4, 2007
Back from my 12 day trek!
Just a quick one to let you all know that I am back from my trek!! It was probably the hardest thing I have ever done. But now I am starving and will go and have lunch with my trekking partner, Francis. May post more later today, but also have some issues with flights to sort out.
Toedeloe from Pokhara!
Toedeloe from Pokhara!
Back in Lhasa
Arrived late last night back in Lhasa, one day ahead of schedule. We gave the bus driver a little extra money and he was willing to do some long driving days.
So today, spending a bit of time of the Internet just catching up.
Today is also the day Caroline will be ending her trek in Nepal. And tomorrow I fly back to Beijing and overnight before heading onwards to San Francisco. So, the trips are really coming to an end now!
Back to work on Monday it seems.
So today, spending a bit of time of the Internet just catching up.
Today is also the day Caroline will be ending her trek in Nepal. And tomorrow I fly back to Beijing and overnight before heading onwards to San Francisco. So, the trips are really coming to an end now!
Back to work on Monday it seems.
Tuesday, October 2, 2007
Last Day at ABC
This is the final post from Advanced Base Camp. We are breaking down ABC and preparing to leave tomorrow. We are all very excited about finally heading down. The Yaks just arrived and will be loaded up in the morning. Next post will be on the road back to Lhasa. As we have left ABC, the alpine ascents email address will no longer work. Please send emails to stephenonchooyu@yahoo.com instead. I should be able to reply on Thursday.
Monday, October 1, 2007
Heading Home
We are starting to break down ABC and preparing to head home. Tomorrow night (Tuesday 10/2) the Yaks arrive. We will load them up on Wednesday (10/3) morning and hike down via Chinese Base Camp to the awaiting jeeps which will whisk us to Tingri for the night. After Tingri we overland in the jeeps back to Shigatse for a night (10/4) and then onto Lhasa for our final night in Tibet (10/5). So, all going well I will be back in San Francisco on 10/7.
Signing off from a mild and sunny ABC. Next post will likely be from Shigatse.
Signing off from a mild and sunny ABC. Next post will likely be from Shigatse.
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