Day 12: Had the best apple-pie on the Circuit today!

Today we hiked from Jomsom to Kalapani. Around 10:30 we stopped in a place called Tukuche and I had the best apple pie on the Circuit in a genuine Dutch Bakery! Simply delicious - with a cup of real coffee!!!!! The hiking again went well today.Unfortunately we have been hiking in a perpetual haze for the last few days, so not much in the way of views. The mountains are all around us, we just can't see them. I expect to be back in Pokhara late afternoon on May 3rd; so yes that is 3 days faster than the original schedule, but it is the way I want to do it. I don't need to arrive in every place at noon and walk around for an hour and then do nothing for the rest of the day.That way I will have a couple of rest days in Pokhara (and hopefully I will get a call from Stephen on the 6th!!), and I will then fly to Kathmandu a bit earlier and actually get to see some of the place other than Thamel. Greetings from Kalapani, caroline.

Day 11: Muktinath to Jomsom

Hello all! Since I found a 'cybercafe' in Jomsom may as well post again! Hiked from Muktinath to Jomsom today and visited Kagbeni on the way. All is still going great! Thank you all for the comments and emails, Stephen and I both enjoy them. We get copies of the comments in our email inbox so we do read them! (Stephen gets them forwarded to the special email address he gave earlier). Greetings from very windy Jomsom, caroline.

Schedule for Second Rotation has be set

Another rest day at EBC, but we have the schedule for the next rotation

• Friday (May 1st) - Move to Camp 1
• Saturday (May 2nd) - Move to Camp 2
• Sunday (May 3rd) - Rest at Camp 2
• Monday (May 4th) - Move to Camp 3
• Tuesday (May 5th) - Down to Camp 1
• Wednesday (May 6th) - Down to EBC and ring Caroline :-)

Signing out from a very hot EBC.

Rest Day at EBC

Another quiet day at EBC.  Just hanging out.  We are waiting on our schedule for the second rotation up the mountain which will be dependent on the weather.  More to come.

Signing out from a slightly overcast EBC.

Day 10: Made it to the Pass!

I am comfortable in Muktinah after the biggest day of hiking; today was the highlight of the Circuit trek: Crossing the Thorung-La High Pass at 5416m. It was a hard day's work but well worth it! Yesterday I made an 'executive decision' and told my guide that I wanted to hike up to High Camp (instead of Thorung Pedi). The section between Thorung Pedi and High Camp is really really steep and I felt I could handle it better yesterday early afternoon than very early this morning. And it worked out very well for me; it made my day today a tad easier (still 680m up in about 2 hours at this altitude). When I reached the goal of our trek, the High Pass, it really was emotional and well worth it. With other hikers I spend about 40 minutes there and had the most expensive (for local prices) but well deserved cup of hot chocolate ever! Everyone was euphoric for having made it and being able to share the moment. The day wasn't over though as we still had to descend 1600m from the pass to Muktinath. But here I am, all showered and fed and mighty proud of myself! The schedule for the next days will probably change quite a bit as we can now afford to be flexible and move at whatever speed we want (no more acclimatization issues). I do want to shave at least one day off the itineray (which calls for 19 days, but i wouldlike to do it in 18 or 17). Greetings from Muktinath, Caroline.

Rest Day at EBC

Today we had our first real rest day.  Every other "rest" day involved several hours of acclimization hikes or training.  But today, we walked to the bakery and generally just had a relaxing day.

Signing out for a sunny EBC.

The First Rotation is Complete

Just arrived back at Everest Base Camp after our first rotation up the mountain.  On the Wednesday (22nd) headed up to Camp 1 (6,000mts) via the notrious Ice Fall.  We got up at 2:30am, breakfast at 3:00am and set-off at 4:00am.  The early morning schedule is to minimize the risk of Ice Fall.  The team made excellent speed and the route was good and well laddered.  We pulled into Camp 1 very tried and happy around 10:00am.  The rest of the day was spent recovering in the tents. 

On Thursday (23rd) we hiked up the glacier to the point we could see Camp 2, and then turned back.  This was an acclimization hike. 

At Camp 1 we share tents, and I am sharing with Matt (you can check his profile on Alpine Ascents cybercast).  Not anything interesting to report from Camp 1 I am afraid. 

On Friday we completed the short hike up to Camp 2 (6,400mts).  The terrain was mild with not too many large carvasses to cross.  We did this hike in around 3 hours.  But very tried on arrival.  I think the altitude is starting to show.  I have also picked up a little bit of the Kumbu cough.  So I pop lozenges every few hours. On Saturday we stayed over at Camp 2 with an acclimization hike up to the begining of the Lohste Ice Wall. 

Last night and on our descent today (26th), we had very high winds.  I mean high-winds created by the jet-stream.  I am amazed our tents survived the night.  Our toilet-tent did not.

But for now, Red team is back in EBC and we will rest up for the next 4-6 days.  We of course listen to the Radios for how Blue team is doing.  We will do the Lohste Ice wall on our second rotation.

Still incredibly sunny in EBC, so signing out.

Day 6: correction

Hey All,
not too sure whether I'll get this post through, internet is very unreliable here in the mountains!
That Ice Lake is at 4460m, not 4160; so we went up 1100m and back down again today.. very hard work. I'm beginning to feel the altitude a little.
Off to Yak Kharka tomorrow and than to thorung-Pedi and then over the high pass. Won't be able to email until at least a few days after that.

greetings from Manang,
caroline.

Day 6 of Circuit Trek

Hello Everyone!   This is day 6 of my Annapurna Circuit Trek and I am in Manang at about 3500m. tomorr ow will make a day hike to 'Ice Lake' at 4160m and then come back to Manang again. I have a lovely room with a view and private bath and shower - just about 5-star as far as Tea-Houses go! the hike today was only 4 hours so there was time to do laundry and just about get it dry in the sun today. The views are simply amazing!   The hikes so far: Day 1: Pokhara-Besisahar by bus, then hike to Nadi. Day 2: Nadi to Jagat Day 3: Jagat to Tal Day 4: Tal to Chame (that was a long one) Day 5: Chame to Lower  Pisang (easy 4 hour hike0 Day 6: Pisang to  Manang (we decided on the low trail which made it again an easy 4 hour hike). The weather has been great. We plan to cross the Thorung-La pass on the 28th and I won't have email acess till at least a few days after that. Till now the altitude wasn't a facor yet, but that will change as of tomorrow.   Greetings from Manang, caroline.

Day 4 of Circuit Trek.

I have just finished my 4th day of hiking and all is going well! Altitude is not a factor yet as I am only at about 2650m. The weather has been good and the tea-houses comfortable. This is the first internet chance I got on the Trek; not too sure when the next time will be.   Greetings from Chame, caroline.

Foray into the Ice Fall

Today, for training, we went about a third of the way to Camp 1 through the Ice Fall.  It was fun and hard.  Tomorrow I and the rest of the "red" team will set off to Camp 1.  We will spend 1 day at Camp 1 and then move up to Camp 2, where we will also spend 2 nights, and then back EBC.  So no more blogs until Monday the 27th.  It  will be good to be climbing high.

I am feeling strong and not having any altitude issues.  So climb-on I say.  Keep your fingers cross.

Signing out from a warm and sunny EBC.

Last day of Training

We had an excellent day of Ice Climbing in various forms.  I scaled a near vertical ice wall without any ice tools (now that was fun).

We are starting to prepare for our move up to Camp 1.  Tomorrow we make a fake run at it and then a more serious run in the following days.  I am excited to be going a little higher on the mountain.

Keep your fingers crossed for a safe passage through the Ice Fall tomorrow.  Signing out from a Sunny and Hot EBC.

Training on Vertical Ice Today

That's right, the training continues in EBC.  Today we practiced vertical ice climbing.  I suspect we will be going high in 3 or 4 days time.  The weather continues to remain wonderful, so life in EBC is not so bad and it is a great place to acclimatize.

Everyone on the team is doing well and getting along.  And this is a good thing as well.  Keep sending the emails, it is nice to here news.  Signing out from another sunny day in EBC.

Lazing around in Pokhara.

I arrived safe and well, with all my luggage, in Pokhara yesterday and went straight to the Chhetri Sisters (3sisters) guesthouse. I was warmly welcomed back and immediately felt 'at home' here again.
Today I am lazing around Pokhara; tomorrow I set off on my 'Annapurna Circuit' adventure.
I expect to be able to post a few times on route but am not sure how often.

Greetings from Pokhara.

Another beautiful day in EBC

Today we had Puja ceremony to bless our climb and all those involved.  This is a cultural highlight of the trip for me.  We prayed to the gods, drink, ate and danced.  It was very interesting.

And in the afternoon and helped the local Base Camp doctors establish the heli-port (although we never hope to use this).

Still feeling very strong. Signing out from a slightly cloudy EBC.

Rest Day in EBC and walk in the Ice Fall

We continue to have wonderful weather here in basecamp.  The team is really starting to get use to the higher altitude.  It is hard to believe we are about 1km higher than any mountain in the 48 states of America.

Today I had my first shower and shave in about a week, so feeling mighty fine.  I think everyone else in the team will also appreciate the new and improved me.

Checking in from Narita airport.

I had a fabulous stay in Tokyo, absolutely loved it. I spent 2 days discovering different parts of the city (and I realize that I have only scratched the surface) and the 3rd day I made a daytrip to Kamakura, about 1hr outside of Tokyo.

I am currently at Narita airport, waiting for my flight to Bangkok (where I will stay overnight at the airport Novotel before flying onto Kathmandu). So far, so good with my flight to BKK; it's only scheduled to depart 30mins late... could be worse.

Next post will be from Pokhara, Nepal.

greetings from Narita, Tokyo.

Everest Base Camp

The team has arrived safe and well to Everest Base Camp (5,325 mts).  It is really quite beautiful up here.  We have been slowly getting use to the thin air up here.  It will be quite a few days before we climb up to Camp 1.  So we are just enjoying the nice weather and the warm sunshine.

If you want to email me directly here, please send the email to climb@alpineascents.com with the subject line containing "for everest : stephen coney".  We only get to check email every few days however.

So, keep your fingers crossed for our climb here.  The adventure is really starting now.

Day 1 in Tokyo.

Arrived safe and well in my Tokyo Hotel last night. I had dinner with Patricia (my friend Olivier put us in touch) and she gave me some really good pointers: about the metro (which is fast becoming my favorite one, it's that easy and clean), places to go and for telling me that this is a safe city.. which I can 't contradict so far.   Watched the news about Bangkok on BBC World and I really hope this isn't going to lead to another closure - or other trouble - at BKK airport... since I'm flying via BKK to Kathmandu on Thu/Fri. Fingers crossed.

Off to Tokyo

My turn to leave today: first stop Tokyo for 4 days. I look forward to getting a taste of this city and it will give me another 'tick' on my 'countries visited' list - can't let Stephen get ahead of me now, can I?   Thank you Paul for taking me to the airport!

Periche - Day 2

Another day in Periche due to accomodation issues higher on the hill. So today we went to Chukkung. Tomorrow we head to Laboche (for sure).

Pheriche

We continue up the valley and are currently in Pheriche. Weather is generally beautiful and we are having wonderful views of local 8,000 meter peaks. This morning I even spyed Cho Oyu. Plan is to move to Laboche for two days and then at Everest Base Camp on few days later. It is great to be trekking in the mountians.

Caroline's 'planned' Trek itineraries.

Here's an idea of the planned itineraries for both my treks; it's give or take a day. **Annapurna Circuit( approx 300km/187m): Start date April 19: I would like to do this in a day less (mainly to have an extra rest day between treks!), so this itineray could change quite a bit, but then again I may stick to just this. Day1: Pokhara - Besishar (by bus) / Besisahar - Bhulbule Day2: Bhulbule - Jagat Day3: Jagat - Tal Day4: Tal - Chame Day5: Chame - Pisang Day6: Pisang - Ghyaru - Braga (high trail) Day7: Ice Lake sidetrip - Manang Day8: Manang - Yak Kharka Day9: Yak Kharka - Thorung Pedi Day10: Thorung Pedi - Muktinath (Thorung-la pass 5,415meters/17,769feet) Day11: Muktinath - Jharkot Day12: Jharkot - Marpha Day13: Marpha - Kalopani Day14: Kalopani - Ghasa Day15: Ghasa -Tatopani Day16: Tatopani - Shika Day17: Shika - Ghorepani Day18: Ghorepani - Tikhedunga Day19: Tikhedhunga - Nayapul (transport back to Pokhara). **Everest Basecamp Trek (approx 110km/70m): Start date May 9 or 10. Day1: Fly to Lukla / Lukla - Phakding Day2: Phakding - Namche Bazar Day3: rest day for acclimatization (if needed) Day4: Namche - Tengboche Day5: Tengboche - Pheriche Day6: Pheriche - Dughla Day7: Dughla - Lobuche Day8: Lobuche - EBC (5,360meters/17,600feet) I then stay in the Alpine Ascents camp; wait for the Climbers to do their thing and then hike out with the Expedition team.

Touring around Namche

Today was our "rest" day. Except we spent the morning hiking around the Namche district. We climbed up to Syangboche which is the local airstrip and checked on our gear, and then onto Khumjung where along the way we got amazing views of Mt Everest. The weather is finally cooperating. In Khumjung we visited the school started by Sir Edmund Hillary. Then more acclimization hiking before stopping at the Everest View Hotel for a lemon drink and chocolate. And of course more scenery during the hike back.

This really is a spectacular place. Tomorrow we plan to continue upto and beyond Tengboche maybe spending the night at Deboche. Plans are a little vague at the moment, and I am sure we will get the plan tonight at conference.

Otherwise trip is going well and having no issues with the acclimization. Just have to drink lots of water :-). Not clear if there is Internet higher up on the mountain, so this could be the last post until base camp in about 8 days.

Signing out from Namche where it is currently snowing.

Namche Bazaar

Yes indeed, we made the plane yesterday and hiked onto Phakding where we spent the night. Although I made it, my gear did not, so I just had my day pack. My teeth are a little furry. But tonight I get my trekking pack.

The mountain scenery is extremely nice with these wonderful swing bridges over raging rivers. There are also lots of ups and downs as we wind our way up the valley along the river. Not too sure how Hillary and friends made it up here 50 years ago.

Today we hiked from Phakding upto Namche Bazaar (which is situated around 3,500mts/11,000ft). Namche is the biggest thing in the neighbourhood. And as you can see has satelite internet (even if it is very slow).

The team will be spending a rest day here tomorrow, so feel free to email or post to the blog.

Signing out from a clouded over Namche.

Stephen got out of Kathmandu!

Finally!!!! They were able to fly to Lukla on April 5th and hike to Phakding the same day. So now the Expedition is truly on its way!

50-50 Chance we Fly Today

So, if this is the last post on the blog, then I successfully made it to either Lukla or Phaplu. Really hoping to fly today. This getting up early, going to the airport and waiting all day to return in the afternoon is getting a little old now. Ready for some trekking to basecamp.

Trapped in Kathmandu

Ok, still here.

We got quite close to escaping form Kathmandu today. Flights were flying but the airport got closed out at Lukla before we could get on a plane and make it there. I guess we will drive to the airport tomorrow and do it all again. Tomorrow we depart at 5:15am. All I can say is, please keep your fingers crossed for our Sunday departure.

Signing out from a hot and cloud free Kathmandu.

Stuck in Kathmandu

Bad weather again today. Spent the morning reading and waiting for confirmation on the plane, which never came. And spent the afternoon window shopping. This is going to get very old very soon. Wish me luck for tomorrow.

Delayed in Kathmandu

Mountain weather can be a frickle thing. So after waking up at 4:30am and arriving at the airport at 5:45am for our 7:00am flight, and spending the entire day at the airport, our flight was eventually cancelled at 2:00pm. So another night in Kathmandu and repeat of the plan tomorrow. Please cross your fingers and toes of an on-day departure tomorrow.

Signing out from an overcast Kathmandu.

Touring in Kathmandu

Spent a cultural day in Kathmandu visiting the local Buddha and Hindu temples. And tomorrow we are scheduled on an early flight up to Lukla and the start of our trek to Everest Base Camp. Keep your fingers crossed for good weather and an on-time departure.

Signing out from a dry and dusty Kathmandu.